Bringing Your New Dog Home

• Count on a dog marking or having accidents the first few days, even if he was housetrained. Have pet-specific cleaning products on hand. Also be prepared for other transitional behavioral problems – read this guide cover to cover now, before problems occur.
• Along with the rewards of having a dog come responsibilities – daily care and exercise, medical visits, obedience training and many years of commitment. Make sure you’re ready.
• Owner knowledge and training is the key to a successful adoption. It’s all up to you. No one training approach is right for every dog. This guide reflects a variety of approaches based on positive reinforcement – the essence of effective training and behavior modification.
• Keep an ID tag attached to a snug buckle collar on your dog at all times.
• During the transition period, a dog needs time to adjust to the rules and schedule of your household. And he needs your leadership! A dog is a pack animal looking for guidance, and it is up to you to teach him good, acceptable behaviors. If the human does not take charge, the dog will try to.
• A dog cannot do damage unless you let that happen. Watch your new dog during the transition period. When you can’t supervise, keep her in a kitchen, crate or other secure area with chew toys.
• Keep dogs on-leash when outdoors in unfenced areas. Otherwise, you’ll have no control if your dog obeys instinct and chases a squirrel into the street…tussles with another dog…or runs after a child.
• Supervise even when the dog’s in a fenced yard. If there’s a way to escape, most dogs will find it.

Remember: Many adopted dogs have not had the luck to be socialized yet. Their baggage may include unacceptable behavior. Re-educate your dog with the help of books and qualified professionals.

• Don’t kiss your dog or place your face at the dog’s eye level before you’ve begun obedience training and established yourself and other humans in the home as higher up in the hierarchy. Dogs often perceive a face placed at their eye-level as a threat, and then bite.
• Beware of letting your dog on your bed or furniture if you haven’t established all human family members as the leaders (“alpha”). Dominance-related problems often arise when a dog is on a higher physical level. Dogs don’t seek equality; they seek and need leadership.
• Don’t issue a command unless you are in a position to enforce it. Telling a dog to do something, then not guiding him to obey if he chooses not to, teaches him to ignore you.
• Beware of sending mixed signals that bad behavior is cute or entertaining.

Teach dogs good house manners from the start.

For the first few days you have a dog, keep him or her in the same room with you – so that if the dog needs to potty, you can rush him outdoors…and so that if he engages in unapproved behavior, you can instantly correct the dog and substitute a more positive behavior. For example, removing the shoe from his mouth, then substituting a toy and praising.

• Do not keep dogs in dark, damp basements, garages, or non-family areas; this thwarts your efforts to raise a socialized, well-behaved, house-trained animal.
• Avoid using overly desirable treats such as rawhides or pig hooves. Dogs will often fight with each other over them, and even attack people they perceive might desire their treats.
• Play nice: Don’t play tug-o-war, rough-house, or engage in other combative play. These practices encourage aggression and teach your dog to challenge you.
• Avoid separation anxiety-related problems by practicing the tips in this guide as well as consulting other sources at the end of this guide.
• Start day one by teaching your dog appropriate behavior through consistent, positive reinforcement.
• Realize there is always a solution to any problem – read and consult trainers.

Changing a dog’s name:

A dog can learn a new name quickly if you use it consistently. Start by linking it with the previous name.

Bring when picking up the dog:

⋅ Buckle collar: leather or non-stretch material. Make sure it is “2-fingers” snug and can’t come off.

⋅ ID tag: attached securely to the collar.

⋅ Training (slip) collar, harness or head collar: Measure the neck and add 3 ” for the proper length – just long enough to fit over the head. Learn how to put it on right. Good alternatives include neck/body harnesses and head halters, which are fitted.

⋅Leash: strong clasp and thick leather or double-ply woven for your comfort.

Note: use another person or a crate/carrier to transport a puppy to contain any “accidents.”

Supplies to have ready at home:

Crate: an invaluable tool, especially at the beginning. Avoid crating a dog for more than 5 hours. Place safe toys inside. Folding crates are also ideal for traveling. If the dog chews on crate bars, get the Vari-kennel or airline crate. Make sure the crate is large enough for dog when full grown; you can block off part for a pup. You can mail-order crates from Dog’s Outfitter 1-800-367-3647, Foster & Smith
1-800-826-7206 and R.C. Steele 1-800-872-3773.
Baby gates: a good confinement alternative. Make sure dog can’t get head/paws caught in the gate, can’t chew through or knock down the gate or jump the gate.
Bedding: easy to clean, thick enough for comfort.
Puppy pen: helpful when you want a pup confined but not crated.
Water and food bowls: use stainless steel or ceramic with no painting on the inside. Plastic can absorb bacteria and smell.
Flea comb: check for fleas, and comb to aid the skin. Good “shedding” control, too.
Brush: brush daily; good for skin and can be better than bathing.
Grooming supplies: get the right tools for your dog if you’re going to bathe, clip claws and cut fur yourself. Different coats require different brushes.
Pet-specific cleaners: such as Simple Solution or Nature’s Miracle, available from pet supply stores. They remove pet stains and odors.
20-foot leash: good for training the “come” command.

Feeding, nutrition & toys:

Food: gradually change over to the food of your choice. Use a good grade of dog food. Premium dog food can lead to lower vet bills. Dry food is good for teeth and digestion. No table scraps: feeding table scraps encourages begging. It’s your job to keep food out of reach.
Biscuits: avoid those with food coloring. Use to reward good behavior.
Low-fat plain yogurt, grated organic carrots and parsley: good daily diet supplements.
Organic apple cider vinegar: a little added to water bowl daily can help digestion and deter fleas.
Rescue Remedy (available in health food stores): calms when traveling, nervous or injured.
Toys: use safe chew toys, such as non-rawhide-based chew-strips. Soft toys are good for some dogs, but others will pull them apart, so remove if this happens.
No rawhide bones: they can be rough on digestion, cause choking – plus rawhides, pigs hooves and other too-highly covered treats can incite dogs to fight over them.
Beware of hooves and hard-packed chews/bones that can crack teeth.
No chicken bones: they splinter and can cause internal injuries.

Getting a dog license:
Contact animal control in your area to license your dog. You must have a rabies certificate. In some jurisdictions, proof of spay/neuter reduces the license fee.

Dogs don’t come pre-programmed. In your dog’s previous life, he may have been encouraged to jump up on people, steal food, or play too rough. Use clear, simple, consistent commands and positive reinforcement. Reward good behavior with treats, hugs and a happy voice. Use corrections sparingly.

Dogs thrive on routine, so orient your new companion to your schedule. As long as you are consistent and provide leadership, the dog will adjust.

By the way, your dog will explore everything, so puppy-proof your house (place shoes inside closets, put electrical cords out of reach, move prized objects to higher ground).

The earlier you train and make lifestyle rules, the easier your dog will be to handle and the fewer problems you will have. And when you do encounter problems, you will be much better able to resolve them.

– Eric Lundquist, trainer/behaviorist

Getting acclimated/housetraining helpers:

When you bring your new dog home, leash-walk so that he can take in the smells of the turf and relieve himself. Pick a special place and encourage him to potty there. Be patient; it may take 10 or 15 minutes. Always praise warmly when he relieves himself in an approved spot.

Next, enter the house and show him around. Keep him on a leash. If he lifts his leg, give him a quick leash correction (yank on the leash and release) and tell him “No” to disrupt the action, then take him outside immediately. Offer him a treat for going in the right place.

Remember, your dog will be excited and anxious about his new home. Don’t be surprised at panting and pacing, house training accidents, excessive drinking or chewing, or gastric upset. In addition, any dog, especially a male who was not neutered early, is likely to mark new territory – especially if other pets have lived there. Tell every member of your family to resist the temptation to overwhelm a new dog. Give him some time and space to get settled.

Next, take him to his crate. Encourage him to sniff around; reward him with small treats for entering and staying in the crate. Keep soft bedding and safe toys in the crate; rotate the toys for variety.

Crate facts. House training problems are the top reason people give up dogs. Crates aid in house training because of dogs’ den instincts – they avoid messing where they sleep. Crating is cruel only if the dog is physically uncomfortable or if left too often or too long. Limit crating to 4-5 hours maximum a day. Important: Teach your dog that good things come in the crate. Place appealing toys in the crate; feed in the crate. Stay in the room awhile and praise when the dog rests calmly in the crate. Resist letting the dog out if she cries. However, if she has to relieve herself, honor that. Over the transition period, gradually open the crate door and increase the number of rooms to which she has access.

After the house tour, take him outside to potty again. Be sure to take him to the same spot.

Important: If your dog is not housebroken, begin house training now (see Housetraining section). Stay tuned in and responsive to your dog’s signals of when he needs to go. The more vigilant you are now, the more reliably house trained he’ll be later.

However, having a few accidents the first week does not mean a dog is not housebroken. Excitement can lead to accidents. In addition, males tend to mark in the house the day or two. Once he begins to settle in, and you begin educating him in acceptable behavior, he will relax and behave.

Using a leash indoors during the transition: For the first couple of weeks, leave a leash attached to the dog’s buckle collar while indoors with you, so you can stop him immediately if he starts doing something you don’t want – such as lifting his leg, chewing on a chair leg, jumping on the couch, or signaling aggression towards anyone in the household.

Warning: Don’t leave a leash attached when you’re not there; the leash could get caught on something or chewed up. Never leave a choke collar on a dog when indoors or out in the yard, or he could be strangled if caught on a drawer pull or fence post.

Timing is everything. When a correction is timed perfectly with the offending behavior, it will redirect your dog’s focus for a fleeting moment. If during this incredibly brief window of opportunity you can insert or re-insert your command, you can often change your dog’s focus. If the correction or the re-command is not done with close-to-perfect timing and technique, it has little effect, other than to desensitize the dog to further corrections.

– Eric Lundquist, trainer/behaviorist

Before bringing a new dog home, be sure all animals are healthy, have current vaccinations and test negative for parasites. Realize that even if the dogs met successfully on neutral turf, things are different when you bring a new dog home. Make sure there’s another person at the homecoming so the dogs can meet on-leash outside.

I use the Gentle Leader head collars; my clients call them power steering for dogs. They make a dog feel more calm and safe. The dog slows down and learns quicker. [Particularly for strong dogs] I have an additional collar on for back-up; I attach the leash to both the head halter and the training collar.

– Cinimon Clark, positive-method trainer/behavior counselor

Prior to the introduction, leash-walk the new dog outside. Then bring out the other dog(s) on a leash, preferably with choke/slip collars to provide full control. Make sure you are relaxed, so you don’t telegraph anxiety through the leash. Avoid keeping the collar pulled tight, since “restraint frustration” elevates tension and the risk of aggression. The dogs will be more relaxed knowing they have some room to maneuver. Watch carefully so you can make a leash correction if necessary.

Make the meeting fun with a walk and some treats (timed to reward good, relaxed behavior). Introduce gradually, making sure the animals are calm. Pet the resident dog, assuring that everything’s OK. If it’s not OK, suspend introductions and resume the walk. Be careful to reward only good behavior.

Keep the dogs within sight of each other. (For more than two dogs, introduce each to the newcomer one at a time.) If the animals are receptive to each other, praise each one and reward them with treats and petting to show that good things happen when they are together. If there is a negative reaction, move back to the distance at which neither reacted. Watch for warning signs such as fur raised on the back, staring or stiffening up. If one dog reacts aggressively, don’t punish the aggressor; instead, take him in a neutral or less valued area to settle down and ignore him. If both dogs act aggressively, remove each to different, neutral areas. Try re-introducing later in the day.

It is essential to use a positive vocal tone at any meeting with another animal or person. People have a tendency to be silent and not express happiness or enthusiasm – yet that is exactly what the dogs need to hear. They need to know that their leaders are confident.

– Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

When correcting unacceptable behavior, timing is critical. Do not wait for the lunge; at the first hint of aggression, such as a stare, correct with a firm “No” and a quick (but not punishing) leash correction, and redirect the dog’s attention to you. You must keep control at all times and show the dogs YOU are the alpha. Don’t be alarmed if they don’t warm up to each other immediately. Either dog may engage in aggressive posturing, barking, marking, housetraining accidents, and possessiveness over toys and people. (If this persists beyond a week or two, consult a specialist.)

When the dogs come inside, a fight could break out, so leave the leashes on for quick control if needed. Keep all toys and treats out of sight until everyone is comfortable. An added advantage to having two people present when introducing dogs is that one can focus on praising each one. However, if you’re alone, you can tie one dog’s leash to a doorknob or sofa leg at a length that allows the animals to sniff each other at a safe range.

The resident dog might be insecure about his place in the pack. Reassure him, but do not let him misbehave or mistreat the newcomer. Resist the temptation to spoil either dog or to allow bad habits you’ll have to break later. Trainers often advise to greet, pet, feed and play with the senior dog first.

The more socialized both dogs are, the less time it will take for them to become friendly. Try not to be nervous, or your dogs may sense the tension and even defend you from the other dog. To avoid injuries, keep new pets separate from others when you aren’t able to supervise. (Some owners find it’s best to continue to keep dogs separated at mealtime, and to keep toys off the floor, to prevent fights.) You might crate the newcomer in a family area. Avoid keeping him in a highly coveted area, such as near the other pets’ food bowls.

Acclimation can take days or weeks. Be sure to give each pet 10 or 15 minutes of quality time alone with you each day – play, brush, massage, practice rewardable skills. Once the animals react well to each other, remove the leashes. Keep watch, and keep a spray bottle or whistle on hand to interrupt the pets if they begin to stare or otherwise misbehave. Continue rewarding good behavior with praise and kibble. Always let your dogs know what you expect of them, and they’ll be responsive instead of confused.

Socialize your dog. Start when she is a young puppy, so she feels at ease with other people and animals. Expose your dog to a variety of situations gradually and under controlled circumstances. Be cautious; don’t put your dog in a position where she feels threatened. Teach her to not be nervous in these situations.

Socialization is critical – and is more than exposing the dog to new experiences. The owner must act as leader in all situations, as the dog will be gauging the owner’s reactions. Remain confident and relaxed, which also allows you to be sensitive to cues from the dog. If a dog does not sense his person can handle a situation, he may try to take charge or react in the only way he knows how – which might be barking, growling, lunging or trying to bite in an attempt to control the environment.

Breaking up a fight: Pour water over the dogs. Keep a bucket of water handy. Turning on a hose works best.

You’ll need a highly controlled environment to introduce your new dog to a cat. It helps to have two people so that one person can hold the new dog while the other praises each animal.

Keep the dog on leash. A chase may ensue only if the cat runs, but dogs with a stronger prey drive pose a greater threat. Firmly correct your dog at the first hint of undesired behavior, and don’t unleash her around your cat until they are interacting calmly.

While you shouldn’t keep the pets entirely apart, make sure you are supervising when they are in the same room in case trouble breaks out. Warning signs in cats include a direct stare, elevated hindquarters, and fur standing on end. If the pets seem to be accepting each other, praise each animal and reward them with treats and petting.

Litterbox accidents are likely, since cats will be disturbed about the newcomer. Your cat may hide or seek higher ground for days or weeks until she is ready to accept the dog. Make sure she has places to retreat that the dog cannot access. Also be sure to block the dog’s access to the cat’s food and litterbox. You can attach a bell to the new dog’s collar to keep track of his whereabouts.

Be careful not to praise undesired behaviors. For example, petting and soothing an agitated or growling animal will reinforce the wrong response. Reward only calm, desirable or at least neutral behavior.

A dog with a high prey drive can be taught to coexist with cats; this requires concentrated practice involving the assistance of another person. First, you must train your dog to understand and obey the “Leave it” or “No” command. Put a training collar and leash on the dog and place him in a sit/stay. The other person stands at a distance, holding the cat. Do a firm leash correction at the start of any suspicious behavior and firmly state “Leave it” (or “No”). Praise and treat your dog for remaining calm and in the sit position. When the dog behaves, the other person can move closer; praise or correct the dog as needed. Continue for 15 minutes and try to end the training session on a positive note.

Training a dog to leave small animals alone requires patience, as it can take weeks. For the animals’ safety, don’t leave them alone together, and separate them at mealtime.

Leadership Tips:
* Dogs are not little humans; they are predatory pack animals who follow a leader.
* Leader dogs need to know that their owners are better leaders, and flight dogs need to know that they will be protected when their environment scares them.
* To be a true leader, give constant feedback and keep control at all times.
* If a newly adopted dog growls or snaps, realize this is normal. The owners need to assert leadership to convey to the dog that they won’t tolerate this behavior. If you back down, or become frightened, your dog gains power over you.
* Seek out an obedience program that focuses on teaching you how to provide leadership, relationship building and problem-solving.

– Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

Never leave children alone with your dog.

Teach your own and visiting children:

• The proper way to approach a dog.
• Not to rush up to, scream at, or pester a dog.
• Never harass or mistreat a dog. Don’t jump on or rough-house with dogs.
• A dog can’t whine or cry, so he tells you he’s afraid by growling and nipping.

The most common reason so many dogs are returned to shelters is because “something happened” while the adopter/adult was not in the room with the dogs and the children. I cannot stress enough: please use caution. Dogs are not baby-sitters.

– Jim Earll, trainer, shelter employee and adoptive father of Playdough, Snort & Hobo

Split up tasks such as feeding, playing and walking with other people in your household so that your dog does not associate positive experiences with only one person.

Food:

A bargain brand dog food may not be the healthiest choice, so it can cost you more down the line. Look for a food that uses higher quality ingredients and contains fewer byproducts and preservatives that can trigger food allergies. Ask about your adopted dog’s previous feeding schedule and food. When you change dog foods, change over gradually, as dogs thrive on a consistent diet.

Feeding dry food helps keep teeth cleaner. For extra nutrients, supplement the daily diet with some fresh vegetables such as green beans and baby carrots and low-fat plain yogurt – dogs love them! But don’t feed a dog table scraps, which typically leads to begging, weight problems and indigestion. If a vet prescribes a special diet, follow that advice.

Feeding plain rice can help a dog get through a digestive problem. If your dog is on antibiotics, add plain yogurt to his food to help replace the good bacteria in his system.

There’s no free lunch. Don’t let a dog grab food. Before feeding, giving treats or petting, give a command (such as “sit”) for your dog to practice.

Feeding schedule & tips:

Make sure your dog has free access to clean, fresh water.

Filtered water can offer health benefits to dogs as well as people. Sometimes dogs can be sensitive to something in your local tap water. In many cases, allergic symptoms will abate when a switch is made to filtered or bottled water.

Free feeding can lead to house training accidents and spoiled food, so it may be best to feed at scheduled times. Young puppies are usually fed three times a day; older puppies and adult dogs twice a day. If the dog’s a picky eater, remove the food bowl after 15 minutes and don’t try again until the next feeding time. Feed other animals away from the new dog to prevent fights.

Your new dog may not be interested in eating the first day, but just try again at the next feeding time.

For health reasons, use stainless steel or porcelain bowls without painted surfaces. Plastic bowls are a breeding ground for germs. Wash food and water bowls between feedings.

Frozen green beans are a great healthy treat – low calorie, too! Being frozen adds to the chewing satisfaction.

– Donna Leader, adoptive mother of Jazzy, a lab

Positive reinforcement: It is much better to teach your pet that he is a “good boy” or “good girl” for going potty outside, rather than teach him he is “bad” for going inside.

– Kathy Graninger, canine behavior specialist

Wouldn’t it be nice if dogs were born house trained? Or if babies were born potty-trained? Until such dreams come true, here are some real-life tips:

• Watch for signs of discomfort, restlessness or circling, then whisk him outside to an established, close-by potty place. Realize that when a dog relieves himself in the wrong place, it’s not out of spite. It’s because he had to go. A problem with not catching the dog in time to whisk him outdoors: the acting of relieving himself in that spot is immediately self-reinforcing due to the rush of relief he feels.
• Praise when she goes potty. Give her a treat or kibble to reinforce the behavior. If 15 or so minutes pass without pottying, trainer Melissa Berryman suggests you pick up a small dog, or bring a larger dog inside for about five minutes and then bring her back out.
• Confine when you can’t watch…in a crate or a part of the kitchen. Don’t leave food out. Do leave water, unless she’ll be confined less than 2 hours. Make this her domain until house-trained.
• Realize that puppies and dogs can’t “hold it” for long periods. Even adult dogs may need a mid- day dog walker if you work long hours. And puppies need to urinate and defecate frequently, so they’ll need to go out at least every 4 hours to get house trained.
• Crate-train. The quickest way to house train most dogs, crate training is based on the premise they don’t like to mess in their sleeping area. Use a crate large enough for your dog to lie down and turn around. For oversized crates, use a divider to confine the dog to one part of the crate until housebroken.
• Feed on a schedule. Feed your dog the same times each day, then take him out a certain amount of time after feeding (this depends on age; often, young puppies must be taken within 15 minutes). Young puppies are usually fed three times a day; older puppies and adult dogs twice a day. Don’t switch from food to food; keep the diet consistent.
• Keep a potty routine. Take your dog outside first thing in the morning, when you get home from work, within an hour after the dog eats, just before bedtime, and following vigorous play. Young puppies may need to be taken outside every two hours. They will get housebroken much faster and reliably if someone can take them out midday during the workday.
• Don’t end the walk outside when your dog potties. Or she’ll get the idea that outdoor fun ends when she relieves herself. This is why some dogs hold it until they are brought back inside. After your dog “goes,” praise, give a treat and keep walking a bit longer.
• Eliminate opportunities for accidents. During the first two weeks, keep your dog close to you so that if she starts to potty indoors, you can correct immediately. Otherwise, she may relieve herself in other rooms – and if you don’t catch her in the act, there’s no use in scolding because the dog won’t remember or make the connection. Close off unused rooms, and use a leash to keep her beside you, either holding the leash or attaching it to a furniture leg (for safety’s sake, remove the leash when you can’t watch her). Until housebroken, crate her when you’re not home to watch.
• Interrupt vs. scold. And use your voice, not physical force. Typically, a dog goes because she just has to. If you catch her in the act, try to interrupt the action with a loud, startling AH-AH-AH!! or NO! and an immediate trip to the potty spot. Use a loud, deep, firm vowel sound; muttering or repeating commands won’t convey the message. You want to alert, not punish, your dog. When she resumes relieving herself outside, praise lavishly.
• Punishment teaches only fear. Never shove a dog’s nose in his mess or smack a dog, which teaches him only to fear hands. Remember: dogs forget what they do after they do it. A dog is unable to associate past behavior with a punishment he is now receiving. He can associate the pain and anger with the person administering the punishment.
• Clean up. Try not to let her see you clean up a mess, or she may think it’s an interactive game. Use an enzyme-based pet odor neutralizer like Nature’s Miracle or Simple Solution to kill the urine scent. Using ammonia is counter-productive, since urine contains ammonia. Cleaning up extends to the outside, too. Many dogs dislike going in a poop-riddled yard. Note: paper training postpones learning the desired behavior.
• Neuter and spay. Intact dogs have a much greater tendency to mark. Alter by age 6 months.

If problems persist, ask yourself:

• Are you missing signals that your dog has to go out?
• Do you keep your dog on a schedule she can count on?
• Do you use an odor neutralizer on the spots, so your dog won’t be tempted to mark there again?
• Could your dog have a medical condition? See your vet right away. A urinalysis and fecal exam will help determine if the dog has an infection, parasites, or a pH imbalance requiring a special food.
• Does your dog urinate when excited or frightened? This is submissive urination. Punishing the dog will only aggravate the problem. When arriving home, greet her quietly and take her right out to potty.
  Arrange greetings for dogs with submissive urination to be outdoors
  – Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor
• Is the dog eliminating in her crate? Pet store pups and other dogs who have spent much of their youth in a pen or cage become used to sitting in their mess. Take the dog outside 20 minutes after eating or drinking. Give her a chance to potty before crating.
• If you keep the buckle collar on when crating, make sure it’s snug so to reduce the risk of it geting caught on crate wires, and be sure to use a crate pan or pad. Or remove the collar when crating, but be sure to put it back on properly as soon as you release the dog from the crate. Never leave chain, slip or pinch collars on a dog when not training or walking the dog as they can easily get caught on things, leading to injury. Don’t attach tags to training collars either; attach tags only to the flat buckle collar.
  New baby? Visiting baby? Include the dog in family activities to avoid behavioral problems. While one person’s holding baby, the other should give the dog some attention. Place the dog in a sit/stay, and dispense small treats to reward good behavior towards the child. This way, the dog associates being near the child with good things.
  – Eric Lundquist, trainer/behaviorist

“Undesirable behavior” is in the eye of the beholder. Many “bad habits” (chewing, mouthing, digging, jumping, chasing, barking) are natural, normal behaviors for a dog. But you can control and replace them with desirable behavior by taking the time to work with your dog. Give your dog opportunities to do something you can reward.
It may take a few weeks before you can train and trust your dog with free run of the house. Until then, when you cannot supervise him, confine him in a safe place such as a crate or baby-gated kitchen. Leave him toys to play with. Remove trash cans or secure trash can lids from the area.

Activity needs. Most often, there is nothing wrong with reportedly hyperactive dogs. Dogs need attention and exercise – and when people don’t give them enough, the dog has to do something with that excess energy. By the way, dogs don’t do things out of spite, which is a human concept. They do things that, right or wrong, seem like ways to cope.

It helps to determine the source of unwanted behavior. It often stems from the frustration of being alone, since dogs are social animals. If you leave your dog for long hours on workdays, consider doggie daycare or a mid-day dog walker.

In some cases, misbehavior results from stress between the human members of the home, or another environmental change such as the arrival of a new household member. Lastly, a change in diet may be needed.

A puppy or dog has no memory of recent activities. So unless you catch him in the act of chewing or doing something unacceptable, scolding won’t help.

Chewing. Chewing is how young dogs explore their environments and mature dogs relieve stress. Move chewable objects out of reach. Take up throw rugs. Shield or hide power cords. Spray Bitter Apple on furniture legs and wood trim. Make sure your dog always has access to his own chew toys. But limit the number of toys you give your dog, or he’ll think nearly everything is fair game. Make a conscious effort to reward your dog for playing with the right toys. In addition, exercise your dog, and teach him obedience commands to redirect his energy.

When you catch him chewing something off-limits, direct him to “leave it,” “drop it” or “out.” This requires that you first teach your dog this command using positive reinforcement. When the dog drops the item, praise lavishly and give him an acceptable substitute to chew.

Teaching your dog to release items from his mouth. Put on a training collar and leash before a play session. Give him a favorite toy. Then, with the leash in your left hand (keep the training collar slack), command “drop it” – and immediately take the item from his mouth. Praise him with “good dog!” or “good drop!”

If your dog locks eyes or bares teeth, quickly yank the training collar once, then release. If he drops the item, praise him enthusiastically. If he displays aggression, get some of the good training books recommended later in this guide and enlist the help of a professional. Do not smack your dog; he will interpret this as a threat and his instinct will be to bite.

Barking. First, realize that some breeds were bred to bark. Next, figure out the key triggers of your dog’s barking. Perhaps it’s the mail carrier, children getting off the school bus, the neighbor coming out to mow his lawn, or daily joggers. As with many dog training issues, aim to reduce the opportunities as well as the incentives to misbehave.

If trigger events occur outside, bring him indoors before the triggers appear. He’ll be less likely to bark when shielded from the opportunity. When he barks and the targets bypass or leave your property, this reinforces the barking behavior – and your dog figures he did his job well.

If you can’t avoid the trigger events, be prepared to re-focus his attention on you. You can do this by using small treats and praise. Or before he focuses on the target for his barking, give a sharp, immediate leash correction. Re-direct his attention to you. Try to catch and stop him before he emits his first bark. Give the correction and command “no!” or “quiet!” When he attends to you, immediately praise him verbally and use tidbits to reinforce the praise. Keep this up and he will learn it is more pleasant not to bark.

The key is to break the barking cycle. To the dog, this cycle is: “Detect trigger person/event … barkbarkbark…feel good and useful…the trigger leaves…my barking works great…I’ll do that again!”

I use “no” as the disengage word for every behavior that is undesirable so the dog develops a clear association.
– Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

Jumping. Jumping and mounting are often behaviors dogs choose to seek a higher rank in the pack; sometimes they just jump out of excitement. Keep people from exciting your dog to the point of jumping up, barking or nipping. Often, jumping can be discouraged by simply ignoring the dog until he settles down. Just turn and walk away. You also can carry tidbits, and provide a treat and attention only when the dog sits calmly on command.

You can correct your dog’s bad behaviors by providing leadership, clarifying his subordinate role in the pack – and by training using humane methods. And remember: breaking your dog of bad habits is much harder than training him the right way the first time.

Out in the yard. Never leave a dog outside unattended, or overnight. Not only does this practice endanger your dog and subject you to legal liability, it too often leads to a nervous, troubled dog. Many dogs given up for “behavioral problems” had been kept outdoors or in basements. Also, dogs left outside dig holes or find a way under, over or through the fence. Even if your dog is not an escape artist, it helps to be there to correct him when he starts the self-rewarding act of digging.

Dogs want to be with their pack, and get lonely, bored and in trouble when alone. When you’re not home, leave the dog in an area where the family spends a lot of time. You can start by confining him in a crate or with babygates until you’ve taught him good house manners.

Most dogs are time- vs. space-intensive. They’d rather have an owner to play with than a yard to play in. Running around a yard provides physical stimulation, but dogs also need the mental stimulation of active companionship with their people.

Furniture-hogging. Decide on the furniture and other house rules, then all family members must abide by the decisions. Consistency is key to training. To teach your dog to stay off the furniture, snap a long leash to his collar when you are home (and leave it on only when you are in the same room). Use a quick leash correction as soon as he tries to hop up. He’ll get the message quickly. Many trainers advise that dogs not be allowed on furniture because the elevated position can give a dog the sense that he is the alpha and can lead to aggressive displays. Instead, give dogs their own comfy beds and crates.

To keep dogs off furniture when you’re not home, place or tape balloons on the furniture – dogs don’t like popping sounds. You can also use large-size bubble wrap.

New dogs can’t get into trouble if they are on leash in the house. It is more humane and easier to stop bad habits before they start, then to change them after they learn something naughty. Maggie was on leash indoors when with me during [the period of] her obedience training. At the computer, I put the handle of the leash around one ankle. In the kitchen, the leash handle went on a cupboard knob.It sounds cumbersome but you get used to it. Now she follows me from room to room in the house on her own volition. Just make sure that when you leave your dog alone, even for a minute, you remove the leash for safety reasons.

– Anna Marchy, trainer-in-training and adoptive mother of Maggie the pit bull

Bonding and insecurities. At first, your dog may be shy or needy. If he continues to cling to just one family member after the transition period, help him work through this problem. Using treats and vocal praise, gradually acclimate him to being near other family members. Have the other people do the feeding, walking and petting, so he associates them with positive, safe experiences.

Give plenty of vocal support and vocal encouragement! Don’t be silent around a “shy” dog. Associate a lot of positives to things that may be new to him.

– Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

Set up situations so that your dog can win if she acts appropriately. Since dogs only use what works for them, you need to show her that to get what she wants [such as scaring off an approaching dog], what normally worked for her in the past [growling, lunging] just won’t work anymore. This is why I let dogs freak out in class. It’s all part of learning. The dog will freak out for about 15 minutes, then realize that nothing is happening – that everyone is ignoring her! Then she switches to a different behavior to see if the new one will work. A dog may go through an entire bag of tricks in hopes of a reward. I just wait for the appropriate behavior (this is “shaping behavior.”) If the dog accidentally looks at you, there’s your opportunity to give a treat. I want the dog to know she’s on the right track – and to learn the pattern so well that when she sees another dog, she immediately looks at me for a treat.

– Cinimon Clark, positive-method trainer/behavior counselor

Nipping and biting. When young dogs gnaw and nip, people often excuse this as “puppy behavior.” But it’s unacceptable behavior that will continue, and grow worse, if not corrected. Like a child, a dog will test the limits and to see who’s boss. The root of a dog’s biting may be in lack of early socialization, fear, dominance, confusion over his role in the pack, a health problem requiring a trip to the vet or a dietary imbalance. By reading books and consulting a professional, you can alter this behavior.

As the leader, you must set limits. Don’t tell a dog not to do something, then send mixed signals that his bad behavior is cute. Consistently reward him when he obeys; correct him when he doesn’t.

– Melissa Berryman, trainer/counselor

If your dog tries to nip during play, command “no” and immediately stop playing. If the leash is on, you can give a correction if he doesn’t comply. Turn his eyes to meet yours to emphasize the point. You must feel and convey a leadership role. As soon as he calms down, say “good dog.” Use your dog’s name when giving praise; don’t use it when in the act of correcting. Giving your puppy or dog something to chew on instead of your hand can also work.
We had a major problem with mouthing after bringing Crop home from the shelter. I ended up with bruises on my arms and legs. Physical intervention (shaking a can of pennies, spraying bitter apple on my arms and legs) didn’t work; he just became more excited like it was a game. A trainer solved the problem in one night. When Crop came over and mouthed me, the trainer had me jump up in alarm, yell “ow” and run into another room and slam the door. Crop sat by the door. After 5 minutes Crop left the door, and the trainer had me rejoin her and my husband in the living room. We continued a conversation, ignoring Crop. He then came over and more softly mouthed me, as if to test the situation. I repeated the performance. He waited at the door, then went into his crate. I returned to the living room. Crop then came over and just put his mouth on me. I repeated the performance – and he never mouthed me indoors again.

When he tried it the next day in the back yard, I yelled “ow” and ran inside, set the timer for 3 minutes and then went back out. He never mouthed me again. I wanted to relay this story because it fundamentally changed my relationship with Crop.

– Cheryl Bailey, adoptive mother of Crop, a pit bull mix

Four keys to raising a happy dog:
1. Train the dog well so that he understands what a command word means, what behaviors are rewarded, and what behaviors result in being corrected.
2. Gain the dog’s respect by being consistent in your behavior and commands. A dog looks to us for leadership because he respects us, not because he fears us, or only because we give him treats.
3. Accustom the dog to a consistent way of living. Avoid indulging in an excessive amount of spoiling behaviors. Too many privileges will give the dog the impression that he is in charge.
4. Use caution when using crates for time-outs. A crate should not be used in a way that the dog may perceive as punishment. Don’t create a negative association. So don’t put the dog in a crate while scolding him; calm down first. Make being in the crate a positive experience.

– Eric Lundquist, trainer/behaviorist

• Secure an ID tag to a buckle collar, and keep that collar on the dog at all times. Keep it “2-fingers” snug and check the fit regularly; don’t risk your dog’s life to a loose collar.
• Always walk your dog on a leash for his own safety and everyone else’s. Voice control is useless when your dog decides to chase a squirrel, knock down a child, or fight with another dog.
  Microchips and tattoos: All pets should wear a collar with I.D. tag at all times, but in case they come off, microchips and tattoos offer added security. Microchipping involves a safe, permanent miniature implant injected beneath the skin over the shoulder using a hypodermic needle; the chips can be read by scanners found increasingly at animal shelters. Tattoos are easy to spot. For details, contact:
  * Home Again Companion Animal Retrieval Microchip System l -800-252-7894
  * AVID Microchip 1-800-336-2843
  * National Dog Registry/Tattoos 1-800-NDR-DOGS
  * Tatoo-A-Pet 1-800-TATTOOS
  If your pet gets lost, contact the Missing Pet Network at www.missingpet.net
• Don’t leave your dog unattended in a car – especially in hot weather. Even with the windows open, a car can heat up like an oven in minutes. Hundreds of animals die in cars each year.
• Make sure your dog always has free access to water – inside the house and out.
• Before you let your dog in a yard, make sure the fence is secure. And keep watch! Unattended dogs can eventually dig under or climb/jump over fences, get injured or disturb neighbors.
• Keep your pets off the grass if you’ve just applied weed killer. They may lick their paws and get ill.
• Avoid heatstroke: don’t leave your dog outside for long periods on a hot day. When outside, a dog must always have a shady shelter and access to water.
• Don’t chain up dogs. Chains and ropes cause injuries, and a chained dog cannot protect himself from stray animals. Chaining creates frustration that leads to aggression and other behavioral problems.
• Antifreeze kills – and unfortunately its taste appeals to pets. Tightly close and store all containers away from pets, and watch for puddles when you’re walking your dog.
• Do not transport your dog in the back of a pickup truck. Hundreds of dogs die each year from falling out of trucks. Also, dogs get head and eye injuries from sticking heads out car windows.
• Shield electrical wires and plug outlets in your home. Don’t leave coins, clips, etc. on the floor.
• Store cleaning products high or behind latched doors. Equip cabinet doors with child-proof latches.
• Don’t let pets drink from a toilet that has freshener in the tank or bowl. The chemicals are toxic.
• Bones, especially those that splinter easily, can lodge in the dog’s throat or stomach and cause fatal punctures. Give your dog rubber bones instead.
• Even a small amount of chocolate can poison and kill your dog. Keep it away from your dog. Unless prescribed by your vet, don’t give human medications like aspirin to your dog.
• Identify and move toxic plants out of reach. According to the National Animal Poison Control Center and other sources, some toxic plants include:

Aloe Vera
Amaryllis
Apple seeds
Apricot pit
Asparagus fern
Avocado – fruit and pit
Azalea
Baby’s breath
Bird of Paradise
Bittersweet
Boxwood
Buckeye
Caladium
Calla Lily
Carnation
Chinaberry Tree
Chinese evergreen
Clematis
Cordatum
Corn plant
Cornstalk Plant
Croton
Cycads
Cyclamen
Daffodil
Dieffenbachia & Dumb cane
Dracaena
Dragon tree Easter Lily
Elephant Ears
English Ivy
Fiddle-leaf fig
Foxglove (Digitalis)
Geranium
Ivy – Branching, Devil’s, English, German, Glacier, Needlepoint
Hibiscus
Holly
Hurricane Plant
Hyacinth bulbs
Hydrangea
Nightshade
Oleander
Onion
Indian Rubber Plant
Jerusalem Cherry
Kalanchoe (Panda Bear Plant)
Lily of the Valley & other lily plants
Marijuana
Mistletoe
Morning Glory
Narcissus
Peach (pits and wilting leaves)
Philodendron (entire plant)
Plumosa Fern
Poinsettia (low toxicity)
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Primrose (Primula)
Rhododendron
Sago Palm
Schefflera
Taro Vine
Tomato Plant (all parts except ripe fruit)
Wisteria seeds
Yew

Dog-Proofing:

• Fences. Check carefully for gaps, loose boards or bent bottom edges. Fix problems immediately. Move any woodpiles away from the fence. Can your dog jump, climb, or dig under the fence? Or break through the pickets? If there’s a way to escape, a dog will find it – either to chase other animals, go after passers-by or to look for company. So don’t leave your dog in the yard unattended.
• Electric/invisible fences. Convenient – but risky. The shocks can be unhealthy. When the power fails, your dog may run off – subjecting the dog to injury…and subjecting you to a liability claim. Also, many dogs would rather be shocked than miss the chance to chase a squirrel (and they soon learn the shock stops after passing the barrier). Electric fences do not keep animal or human intruders out.
• Gate latches. Can someone enter your yard or release your dog? Can your dog open the latch?
• Screen doors. A dog can easily kick open or tear through screen doors.
• Doggie doors. Block the door when you are not at home or cannot supervise your dog.
• Block open stairs/railings using baby or puppy gates.
  

Cold weather tips: Dogs can get frostbite, so don’t stay outside long on cold days. Rock salt can damage paw pads and ice melt can be toxic; when pets lick their paws, they can get ill. After walks, remove ice balls between the toes and wipe feet with a damp towel.

Leader of the Pack – by Nancy Baer and Steve Duno
Second Hand Dog…Surviving Your Dog’s Adolescence…Mother Knows Best…The Chosen Puppy – all by Carol Lea Benjamin
Childproofing Your Dog: A Complete Guide to Preparing Your Dog for the Children in Your
Life … MetroDog: The Essential Guide to Raising Your Dog in the City … Mutts, America’s Dogs: A Guide to Choosing, Loving, and Living with Our Most Popular Canine – all by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson
The Culture Clash … Dogs Are From Nepture – both by Jean Donaldson
Creating a Peaceable Kingdom – by Cynthia D. Miller
The Power of Positive Dog Training – by Pat Miller
Adoptable Dog: Teaching Your Adopted Pet to Obey, Trust and Love You – by John Ross
Dogsmart: The Ultimate Guide for Finding the Dog You Want and Keeping the Dog You Find – by Dr. Myrna M. Milani
How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks – by Dr. Ian Dunbar
Bad Dog: A Quick-Fix A-Z Problem Solver for Your Dog’s Bad Behavior – by Steve Duno
Purely Positive Training – by Sheila Booth
Happy Dog: How Busy People Care For Their Dogs – by Arden Moore & Lowell Ackerman
The Dog Whisperer – by Paul Owens
Think Dog! – by John Fisher
The New Better Behavior in Dogs…Behavior Problems in Dogs – both by William Campbell
How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks – by Dr. Ian Dunbar
So Your Dog’s Not Lassie – by Betty Fisher and Suzanne Delzio
Don’t Shoot the Dog…Clicker Training for Dogs – both by Karen Pryor
Aggression in Dogs – by Brenda Aloff
The Dog Who Loved Too Much… Dogs Behaving Badly – both by Dr. Nicholas Dodman
Dogs for Dummies – by Gina Spadafori
The Dog Who Would Be King – by John C. Wright
People, Pooches, and Problems – by Job Michael Evans
Are You The Pet For Me? – Mary Jane Checchi
The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Getting and Owning a Dog – by Sheila Webster Boneham
Choosing and Caring for a Shelter Dog: A Complete Guide – by Bob Christiansen
The Pet Surplus: What Every Dog and Cat Owner Can Do to Help Reduce It – by Susan M. Seidman
Your Dog (Tufts University) 800-829-5116

For young people:

A Kid’s Best Friend – by Maya Ajmera and Alex Fisher
Dog Training for Kids – by Carol Lea Benjamin (Ages 9-12)
SuperPuppy: How to Raise the Best Dog You’ll Ever Have! – by Peter J. Vollmer (Ages 9-12)

Web Sites

https://www.paw-rescue.org/before.html – Planning to adopt a pet
https://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/dog_tips.html – Dog tips on nearly every topic
http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/ – Solving dog and cat problems
http://www.loveyourdog.com/ – Love Your Dog
https://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_Books.php – Books
http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/children.htm
https://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FirstAid.php
https://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_CPR.html
http://vetmed.illinois.edu/petcolumns/
http://www.rentwithpets.org
http://www.aspca.org – Information about pets, teaching children about animals and more
http://www.thedogsite.org/
http://www.northbay-canine.org/lastresort3-txt.htm – Surrendering Your Pet The Last Resort
http://www.VeterinaryPartner.com/Content.plx
https://www.sfspca.org/resources/tenants-landlords
http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/lib-prob.htm#agg
http://www.apdt.com – Association of Pet Dog Trainers – find a trainer
http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/behavior.html – Training and behavior guidance
http://www.dog-play.com – Agility, therapy and other fun activities for you and your dog
www.paw-rescue.org/petbulls.html – About Pit Bulls
www.dogfriendly.com – Travel tips and places to go with your dog

Phone Hotlines

ASPCA Ani-Med 1-888-721-9100
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center 1-888-4-ANI-HELP or 1-888-426-4435
National Animal Poison Control Center 1-800-548-2423
Pet Lover’s Helpline 1-900-776-0007
Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine 508-839-5395